First Time Using Electric Hook Up at Campsites? Start Here
Camping isn’t all about roughing it anymore. With an electric hook up at campsites, you don’t have to give up home comforts. You can switch on a light, charge your gadgets, or run a little fridge without fuss. The only tricky bit is knowing how to set it up and what’s safe to plug in. This guide shows you the gear you need, how to connect step by step, and the safest way to use power while enjoying life under canvas.
How to Hook up Electric at Campsite?
An electric hook-up (EHU) is the campsite’s mains supply. You’ll usually see the familiar blue socket on a bollard close to your pitch.
It follows the BS EN 60309-2 standard and delivers 230V, single-phase, 50Hz power, essentially the same as you’d get at home. With the right lead, you can plug in and run a handful of everyday appliances, as long as you stay within the site’s amp limit.
Most modern UK campsites offer a 16A supply, though plenty still stick to 10A. On smaller or more rural sites, you may only get 6A. The connector itself always looks the same; it’s the breaker behind it that sets how much you can actually draw.
Now, here’s how to connect and use these camping electric hook ups safely:
Tools & Equipment You’ll Need
First things first: a standard household power strip or extension lead won’t fit into a campsite EHU socket.
What you need instead is a hook-up lead with the standard blue plug. Choose a heavy-duty orange outdoor cable with 2.5 mm² three-core wiring, which is rated to safely carry the full 16A current. Usually, a 25-metre length is recommended to reach the pitch bollard without extra joins.
You’ll also need RCD and MCB protection. An RCD (Residual Current Device) is a built-in safety switch that cuts the power if it senses electricity leaking where it shouldn’t, protecting you from shocks. An MCB (Miniature Circuit Breaker) trips if too much current is drawn, guarding your kit and cables against overloads or short circuits.
Most caravans and motorhomes already come fitted with these protections, so in those cases a hook-up lead alone is enough.
If you’re camping in a tent or running appliances outside your van, you’ll need a mobile mains unit. This is essentially an extension block fitted with its own RCD/MCB protection and covered 230V sockets, designed for outdoor use.
In practice, you’ll often find the lead and mobile mains unit sold together as a single kit. Some versions come housed in a sturdy reel, which helps keep the cable neat and makes storage easier.
Step-by-Step Connection
Connecting to an electric hook up at camping sites is straightforward if you follow the correct sequence. Here’s how to do it:
Get settled first: Park your caravan or pitch up your tent, make sure everything is level, and think about where your cable will run. Aim for a tidy route that doesn’t cross roads or create a trip hazard.
Switch everything off: Before you plug in, switch off your caravan’s consumer unit or your mobile mains box. If the bollard has its own switch, flick that off as well.
Connect to the bollard: Take the male end of the EHU lead (the one with pins) and push it firmly into the blue socket on the post.
Uncoil the cable fully: Lay it out flat, well away from puddles or sharp edges. A coiled cable under load can overheat, so always stretch it out.
Plug into your unit: On a caravan or motorhome, take the female end of the hook-up lead (the one with holes) and connect it to your inlet socket. In a tent, run the cable through the designated entry point and place the mobile mains box inside.
Power up safely: Now, switch everything on. Press the test button on the RCD of your mobile mains box to make sure it trips, then reset it. After that, you can plug in and start using your appliances.
Disconnect the right way: When it’s time to pack up, switch off your appliances first, then your unit’s main switch. At the bollard, turn the supply off and unplug there before you disconnect from your van. Coil the cable dry and store it loosely to keep it in good shape.
What Appliances Can You Run?
The appliances you can use at campsites with electric hook ups come down to the amp limit of your pitch. Most UK campsites offer 10A or 16A hook-ups, though some smaller sites only provide 6A.
Your total running load must stay under that limit. Here’s the basic maths:
Power Wattage (W) = Voltage (230V) × Current (A)
So, your total allowance at different amp limits is like this:
6A ≈ 1,380W
10A ≈ 2,300W
16A ≈ 3,680W
Go over it and the breaker trips. Some appliances, like microwaves, also draw a brief surge when they start up, so it’s wise to leave yourself a bit of headroom.
Here are the typical wattages of some camping essentials and their approximate amps at 230V. Figures vary slightly by model, but these give you a clear guide.
Common camping appliances
Appliance | Typical watts | Approx amps at 230V |
Camping kettle | 750W | 3.3A |
Household kettle | 2,000W | 8.7A |
Microwave (800W cooking power) | 1,000W | 4.4A |
Fan heater (low) | 1,000W | 4.4A |
Fan heater (high) | 2,000W | 8.7A |
Hair dryer | 2,200W | 9.6A |
Toaster (2-slice) | 900W | 3.9A |
Caravan/under-counter fridge | 135W | 0.6A |
12V compressor camping fridge | 35–60W | 0.2A |
Portable air conditioner | 800-1,200W | 3.5–5.2A |
Laptop charger | 100W | 0.4A |
Phone/USB charger | 20–75W | 0.1–0.3A |
LED lamp | 5W | 0.02A |
Putting it into practice
Now you have a better idea of what appliances and gadgets you can bring and run at campsite electric hook-ups.
On a 6A pitch (~1,380W): You’ll need to keep it simple. Lights, phone chargers, a camping kettle or toaster are fine, but forget heaters or full-size kettles. Stick to one high-draw item at a time.
On a 10A pitch (~2,300W): You’ve got more breathing room for high-draw items, like a 1,000W fan heater or one of the best portable air conditioners. A 2,000W household kettle will just about fit, but don’t try running it alongside a heater. Mix one heavy load with lighter items like chargers and lights.
On a 16A pitch (~3,680W): You can run more without worry, but it’s still easy to trip if you pile on big hitters like a heater, kettle, and hair dryer at once. Switch things on one by one and keep an eye on what’s running.
On hot summer trips, or if you’re travelling with kids or pets, a portable air conditioner can make a big difference to comfort. The EcoFlow WAVE 3 Portable Air Conditioner plays nicely with campsite hook-up limits. It’s a heat-pump that offers both cooling (≈6,100 BTU) and heating (≈6,800 BTU) in one, making it useful in more than just summer. On a campsite hook-up, it runs at about 690W in cooling mode, roughly 3 amps, so you keep plenty of headroom on a 10A pitch while running lights and chargers.
Installation is quick and straightforward, and day-to-day use is just as easy. Through the EcoFlow app, you can set timers, check power use, and get alerts if the water tray needs draining. Noise levels drop to around 44 dB in Sleep Mode, which is low enough not to disturb your neighbours.
Going off grid? An optional 1,024Wh LFP add-on battery can keep it running for up to eight hours without a cable. That battery can recharge fast on AC or solar, and it can also top up from your vehicle’s alternator when you’re on the move.
EcoFlow WAVE 3 Portable Air Conditioner
How to Safely Use Electric Hookups at a Campground
Getting power on site is a huge convenience, but it’s only safe if you treat it with a bit of care. Here are the main points to keep in mind:
Always use the right kit: Stick with a proper camping hook-up lead and RCD-protected unit. Household extension reels or multi-plugs aren’t built for outdoor conditions and can overheat or let in water. A good EHU kit is weatherproof, tough, and fitted with safety cut-outs that protect you if something goes wrong.
Keep cables safe and dry: Lay the lead flat on the ground, fully uncoiled, and away from sharp edges or standing water. If you need to cross a walkway, route it neatly to one side or cover it so no one trips. Keep the connection points at your unit off the ground where they won’t sit in puddles.
Respect the amp limit: Know what your pitch provides (10A or 16A) and add up your appliances before switching them on. Running too much at once will trip the breaker, and it’s usually the whole post, not just your socket, that cuts out, meaning unhappy neighbours too.
Test your RCD: Every trip, press the test button on your RCD box or consumer unit. It should trip instantly, then reset cleanly. That simple check is one of the best defences against electric shock.
Switch off before connecting or disconnecting: Get into the habit of switching your unit off before plugging in or unplugging. At the end of your stay, disconnect at the bollard first, then at your caravan or tent. That way, you’re never handling a live cable.
Use appliances sensibly: High-draw items like kettles, heaters, or hair dryers need extra thought. Don’t run them together, and don’t leave them unattended. Low-draw kit, like lights, chargers, or camping fridges can usually stay on safely, but always check wattages if you’re unsure.
Alternatives to Electric Hookups at a Campground
Not every campsite offers an electric hook-up, and sometimes pitches with EHU cost more or sell out fast. The good news is there are reliable ways to power your essentials without plugging in. Here are the most common alternatives:
Portable power stations and solar panels (solar generators)
A portable power station is basically a big rechargeable battery with built-in USB ports and 230V outlets for small appliances. On its own, it can keep lights, phones, laptops, or a compressor fridge running for a decent stretch, depending on the size.
Unlike gas generators, portable power stations are quiet, clean, and completely fume-free, making them more popular with campers. You can recharge one from a wall socket at home or from your car while you’re on the road.
Pair it with a portable solar panel, and you’ve got a self-sustaining solar generator setup. On sunny days, the panel tops up the power station so you can stay off-grid for longer without worrying about running flat. Output depends on the panel size and weather, so it’s not as constant as campsite mains, but for many campers it’s more than enough to cover daily charging and light use.
Take the EcoFlow DELTA 2 Max Portable Power Station as an example. It holds a generous 2,048Wh of capacity out of the box and can expand to over 6kWh with add-on batteries, which is handy for longer tours.
Its LFP battery chemistry means it lasts for thousands of cycles, so it’s built with longevity in mind. Power output is strong too: 2,400W AC as standard, or up to 3,100W with X-Boost, which means you can comfortably run most of the kit you’d actually bring camping.
Charging is quick, around 80% in under an hour on mains, or even faster if you combine mains and solar. It also accepts up to 1,000W of solar, and you can monitor or adjust settings through the EcoFlow app.
EcoFlow DELTA 2 Max Portable Power Station
The EcoFlow NextGen 220W Bifacial Solar Panel makes a neat match. Its design lets it capture light from both sides, 220W from the front and up to 175W from the back, so you make the most of reflected light on bright days.
It uses monocrystalline silicon cells with up to 25% conversion efficiency, which helps keep the panel compact without giving up output. The integrated adjustable stand and angle guide make it quick to set up for best sun, then pack away. It’s IP68-rated and about 7 kg, so rain showers and damp grass aren’t a drama.
Together, this combo keeps everyday kit running, from LED lights and chargers to a 12V compressor fridge and gives you the option of powering bigger items without stressing about supply. It’s quiet, flexible, and takes the edge off going without a mains hook-up.
12V leisure batteries with inverter
Caravans and campervans usually carry a 12V leisure battery to run lights, pumps, and other onboard systems. With an inverter, you can also power some 230V devices, but be mindful: inverters drain batteries quickly if you plug in high-wattage kit. This option works best for essentials like LED lights, charging gadgets, or a compressor fridge.
Generators
Some campers still use petrol or diesel generators, especially on off-grid sites. They provide solid power, but they’re noisy, heavy, and not always welcomed by neighbours (or allowed by the campsite). If you consider one, check site rules first, and always use it outside, well away from sleeping areas, to avoid carbon monoxide risk.
Gas for cooking and heating
Don’t forget the obvious: LPG or camping gas is a reliable alternative for cooking and heating. A small camping stove or a caravan’s gas hob will easily take care of meals without touching your electric allowance. Some caravan fridges and heaters can also run on gas.
Conclusion
Camping with electricity doesn’t have to be confusing. Once you know how an electric hook up at campsites works, what you can safely run, and the alternatives available, you’ve got real flexibility. Whether you stick with the site’s mains supply or rely on a power station and solar, the key is balancing comfort with safety. With the right approach, you can enjoy your favourite home comforts in the great outdoors, without tripping breakers or cutting the adventure short.
FAQs
What is an electric hook up at a campsite?
An electric hook up, often shortened to EHU, is the weatherproof blue socket you’ll see on a campsite bollard near your pitch. It supplies mains electricity—230V, single-phase, 50Hz—just like you’d use at home, but with a capped limit on how much power you can draw.
To connect, you’ll need a dedicated hook-up lead with the matching blue plug, usually up to 25 metres long. Once plugged in, you can run camping-safe appliances such as lights, phone chargers, or a low-watt kettle, or top up your van’s 12V leisure battery. Each pitch has its own amp limit (commonly 10A or 16A), so it’s important to add up what you’re using and stay within that load.
Do I need an electric hook up for a campervan?
It depends on how you like to travel. Many campervans can run happily without one, relying on a leisure battery or solar panel for lights, mini fridge, and charging phones. But if you want to use kettles, heaters, or recharge your battery more easily, an electric hook up is really useful, especially in colder months or on longer stays.
Most UK campsites with hook ups provide 10–16 amps, which is plenty for normal use if you manage your appliances. If you’re only stopping a night or prefer quiet wild camping, you may find you don’t need it at all.
How to generate electricity when camping?
When you’re camping without a mains supply, you’ll need your own way to create or store power. The most popular option is a portable power station, which you can recharge at home, while driving, or by using a portable solar panel during the day.
Many campers carry a large power bank for phones and small devices too. Some people use compact petrol generators, but these can be noisy and are not welcome on every site. A safer bet is a solar and portable power station setup, both of which are quiet, clean, and perfectly suited for off-grid adventures.
How to hook up a tent to an electric?
If your tent pitch includes an electric hook up, you’ll need a special mobile mains kit made for camping. This comes with a long hook-up lead with a blue plug and a small unit with sockets and built-in safety switches.
To connect, make sure everything’s off and plug the cable into the blue socket on your pitch’s bollard. Now, run the cable flat to your tent, place your mains unit inside, and test the safety button. Keep cables uncoiled, off the ground where possible, and out of puddles or doorways. Avoid overloading the system. Most pitches allow 10A or 16A, so stick to low-wattage appliances designed for camping use.