How to Use Electric Hookups at a Campground
Every campsite has its rhythm. Morning birds, rustling leaves, and somewhere nearby, the hum of a camper plugged into shore power. That low background buzz often marks the difference between a comfortable stay and a rough night in the dark. Understanding how to tap into campground power helps unlock the full comfort of RV life, without needing to become an electrician.
What is the Standard Electrical Hookup for a Camper?
Most campgrounds in the U.S. and Canada use power pedestals. These boxes typically sit near the back of each campsite and provide plug-in access to shore power. A standard camper electrical hookup usually offers:
- 30-amp outlet (TT-30): Suitable for most travel trailers, Class B/C RVs, and smaller fifth wheels.
- 50-amp outlet (14-50): Meant for large RVs and rigs with dual A/C units or heavy electric loads.
- 15/20-amp household outlet: Acts as an extra option for small electronics, but not intended for camper-wide use.
Each of these outlets supplies 120 volts of alternating current. The difference lies in how much power the connection can deliver at once. A 30-amp plug gives about 3,600 watts. A 50-amp plug can provide up to 12,000 watts across two legs of 120V.
How to Connect Your Camper to a Campground Hookup
Campground hookups seem simple from the outside, but improper steps often lead to fried appliances or lost power. The process below helps avoid costly mistakes.
Step 1. Locate the power pedestal
At most sites, the pedestal sits near the rear left corner. Look for a vertical metal or plastic box with a small door. It usually contains outlets and breakers.
Step 2. Turn off all breakers at the pedestal
Before any cable meets a socket, all breakers on the pedestal should be switched off. This prevents electrical arcing when the plug connects.
Step 3. Check plug compatibility
Match your camper plug to the outlet on the pedestal. If your camper uses a 30-amp plug and only a 50-amp outlet is available, use a reliable 30F to 50M adapter. The reverse works too: 50A camper with only a 30A outlet? Use a 50F to 30M adapter and expect to run fewer appliances.
Step 4. Connect the power cord
Insert the plug firmly into the outlet. Twist if needed to lock it in. Always use a heavy-duty, weather-rated power cord made for RV use.
Step 5. Add protection (optional but smart)
Plug in a surge protector between the pedestal and your power cord. Voltage spikes, miswired pedestals, and lightning strikes happen often enough to justify this layer of defense.
Step 6. Turn on the pedestal breaker
Flip the switch for your outlet to the “on” position. Power should now flow into your camper. Test the outlets inside to confirm everything works.
Step 7. Tidy up cords
Keep cords off the ground using blocks or cord organizers. Wet grass, mud, and rodents pose risks to exposed wires.
How to Solve the Practical Problems Facing You
Power at a campground does not always play nice. Even well-maintained parks experience occasional problems. Knowing what to expect prepares you for a smoother stay.
Problem 1. Wrong plug match
Not all campgrounds offer both 30A and 50A. Some only provide one. Adapters help bridge that gap. Use:
- 30F to 50M adapter for plugging a 30A camper into a 50A pedestal
- 50F to 30M adapter for using a 50A camper with a 30A source
Remember: using a 30A source limits total available wattage to about 3,600W. That means one A/C at a time, or alternating microwave and water heater usage.
Problem 2. The breaker keeps tripping
This often points to overloading. Reduce the number of active high-wattage devices. Air conditioner, microwave, and water heater together often exceed the limits on a 30A circuit.
Problem 3. No power at all
Check the pedestal breaker first. Then inspect your cord for damage. If both seem fine, test the pedestal using a multimeter or a voltage analyzer plug. Campground management may need to reset the pedestal or assign a new site.
Problem 4. Power surges or flickers
Fluctuating voltage can ruin electronics. A surge protector with real-time voltage display helps you monitor conditions. If surges persist, switch to battery power and notify campground staff.
Problem 5. Wet weather hazards
Wet cords, exposed outlets, and puddles around the pedestal are dangerous. Use weatherproof covers and position cords above ground when possible.
Problem 6. Low voltage during peak hours
In crowded parks, especially older ones, the voltage drops when everyone uses air conditioners. If lights dim or your A/C struggles, switch to fewer appliances or use battery power during high-demand periods.
Why You May Need Backup Power for Your Camper?
Hookups provide the luxury of consistent power, but they don’t cover every scenario. Storms, faulty pedestals, or boondocking in remote areas quickly reveal the value of backup energy.
A portable power station acts as an all-in-one battery, inverter, and charger. When a hookup fails or doesn't exist, power stations take over. For campers relying on fridge cooling, lights, fans, or CPAP machines, uninterrupted power becomes essential.
The right station depends on camper size and power habits. A 1500Wh unit powers essentials for a night or two. For longer off-grid stays, a 2000Wh or larger model offers more flexibility. Some models even support pass-through solar charging, letting you recharge using portable panels during the day.
EcoFlow DELTA 2 Max is a reliable choice here. It delivers 2400W of continuous AC power (surge 4800W), stores 2048Wh of energy, and supports up to 6144Wh with expansion. That covers most camper essentials for multiple nights. Its 50 lb form factor makes it manageable to carry, and it charges to 80% in about one hour — great for quick prep between stops.
Why DELTA 2 Max works great for campers:
Power fridges, microwaves, fans, and even induction cooktops
Expandable capacity for long boondocking trips
Supports 1000W solar input (dual port), ideal for mobile panels
Quiet, zero-emission operation — campground friendly
Smart app lets you monitor usage remotely
Besides power stations, some campers carry inverter generators. These machines run on gas and deliver stable AC power. They support high loads but create noise and emissions. In quiet campgrounds, battery-based stations are more welcome.
Backup power also helps during travel. While driving, shore power is unavailable. A power station fills the gap, especially for those who run electric fridges or need to recharge phones and tools.
For those with solar setups, portable batteries store excess energy collected during daylight hours. That energy runs small devices at night without draining the primary camper battery.
FAQs about Campground Electric Hookups
Q1: Can I use a household extension cord to connect my camper to a power source?
A: No. Household extension cords are not designed to handle the high amperage that RVs require. They lack the insulation, thickness, and heat resistance necessary for safe and sustained power delivery. Only RV-rated cords with appropriate amp capacity should be used. Using a household cord can lead to overheating, voltage drops, or fire hazards.
Q2: What happens if I plug my camper into a 220V outlet instead of a 120V RV outlet?
A: Serious damage may occur. U.S. Camper systems are built for 120V service. Plugging into a 220V outlet (like a dryer outlet or non-standard generator port) can fry onboard electronics, appliances, or even your converter. Always confirm voltage with a meter or surge protector that displays voltage readings before connecting.
Q3: How can I monitor my power usage inside the camper during hookup?
A: Several options exist. The simplest is a plug-in energy meter that connects to an interior outlet and displays real-time wattage. For full monitoring, install an RV energy management system (EMS) or smart surge protector with app-based tracking. These systems show how much power each device draws and help prevent overloading circuits.
Q4: Can I use a splitter to connect two RVs to the same pedestal outlet?
A: Technically possible, but not advised unless the pedestal provides separate breakers and sufficient amp capacity for each rig. Splitters (Y-adapters) divide available power but do not increase total output. Sharing a single 30A source between two campers risks tripping breakers and unbalanced loads. Always confirm with campground staff before attempting shared connections.
Q5: Does cold weather affect how my camper receives power from a campground hookup?
A: Yes, in multiple ways. Low temperatures reduce battery efficiency, so shore power becomes more essential. Cold weather may also stiffen cords, increase resistance, or make connections less secure. In extreme cold, electrical contacts can become brittle or corroded. Use insulated power cords rated for outdoor winter use and periodically inspect them for cracks or wear.
Your Connection to Comfort: Mastering Campground Electricity
Campground hookups may look like simple boxes on a post, but they represent a critical link between comfort and chaos. Learning to plug in safely, adapt to unexpected issues, and prepare for power gaps helps every camper stay confident under any sky. Whether you're traveling for a weekend or a full season, smart power use turns the campground into home.